The Sea Wolves of Lindisfarne

The Viking Age · 8 June 793

The Sea Wolves of Lindisfarne

Dragon-prowed ships find the holy island undefended at dawn

The year began with omens, and the monks wrote them down: immense whirlwinds over Northumbria, sheets of lightning, and what the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle records, without blinking, as fiery dragons flying in the air. A famine followed. Nobody connected any of it to the sea. The island is famous for two things: the gospels its monks illuminate in gold, and the fact that no one has ever needed to defend it. Lindisfarne sits off the Northumbrian coast like a thought: reachable twice a day when the tide uncovers the causeway, otherwise alone with its prayers. For over a century it has been the holiest ground in the north, because Cuthbert is buried here, and kings who fear nothing else fear Cuthbert. Pilgrims bring silver. The silver stays on the altar, because who would take it? This morning the monks at matins hear gulls, then oars. Three ships with carved serpent heads are riding the high tide straight onto the beach, something no trading vessel does. The men who leap out move through the priory with terrible efficiency: altar silver, jeweled bindings, the young monks who will fetch a price in the north. Some of the brothers are killed in the doorways; some are driven into the sea to drown; the old ones are left. It is over before the tide turns, which is to say the whole thing fits inside six hours of water. The ships go out the way they came, heavier. The news travels at the speed of a frightened rider, and where it lands hardest is not in Britain at all but at the court of Charlemagne, where a Northumbrian scholar named Alcuin runs the palace school. He writes to the survivors what everyone is thinking: never before has such terror appeared in Britain, and no one believed an attack from the sea was even possible. The church of St Cuthbert, he writes, spattered with the blood of the priests of God, stripped of its ornaments. Then, being a schoolmaster, he cannot help adding that the monks should consider whether their own sins invited this. The men in the serpent ships considered nothing. They had found a business model: wealth, undefended, on a coastline with no navy, and the same tide that exposed the causeway would cover their retreat. What the raiders could not sell, they left, and one of the things they left is the point of the story. The great gospel book of Lindisfarne, written and painted around the year 700 by a single monk named Eadfrith, in inks he ground himself, survived the morning. When the community finally abandoned the island three generations later, the monks carried two things over the causeway: Cuthbert in his coffin and the book, and they walked Northumbria with them for seven years before settling at last on the rock that became Durham. The raids they were fleeing went on for two and a half centuries and redrew every map they touched. The book outlasted all of it. It sits today in the British Library, unburned, unransomed, every gold letter in place, the one witness from that morning still open for visitors.

Nicholas Roerich, Guests from Overseas, 1901